The Best of The Best

The Best of The Best

Photo of Portland Monthly

Hungry for more? Read on for our favorite spots.

24 Places
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    Addictive grilled eggplant buns; the joyful brussels sprouts salad; colorful pickles to roll in gingered rice and seaweed sheets; and pears fried to fruit-leather intensity.
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    Expect flavorful paellas, fried green tomatoes with pickled mayo, juicy crab-and-pork croquettes, seared scallops and braised lamb with apricots and coriander, and salt-cod fritters.
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    Twenty dollars brings an onslaught of courses, from cinnamon-spiked, tea-stained quail eggs to Netarts oysters under an avalanche of shaved kimchi ice.
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    As darkness falls, St. Jack transforms into a three-room riff on a bouchon, an offal-loving den of informality, common in Lyon, that serves bulk local wines and food made for cast-iron stomachs.
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    Ware learned to twist Asian conventions with technical process at David Chang’s famed Momofuku Ssäm Bar in Manhattan.
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    Order a plate of khao man som tam—blissfully sweet shredded pork served over coconut rice with green papaya salad—and sit at one of the (heated and covered) outdoor picnic tables.
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    The kitchen still juggles house classics—perfect mussels and hand-cut fries, exquisite bone marrow towers knee-deep in red wine sauce and fat escargot—and mad creativity.
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    The intimate chef’s counter is an essential destination—and close enough to the wood fire to literally feel the heat.
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    Shrimp bathed in chile oil and chèvre or curls of baby octopus over corona beans and chorizo lend themselves to a skillful Old World wine list brimming with dangerously drinkable rosés and sherries.
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    Pasta with tomato butter embodies simple purity, but desserts—hot-from-the-oven fruit crisps and intensive chocolate bodino—can make you gasp.
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    Each dish is meticulously arranged on ever-shifting plates of outsize scale holding tiny portions of contemporary food meant to feed your mind, not fill your gut.
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    Dishes inspired by Old World recipes, campfire odes, and French’s imagination change daily (or even midmeal) as supplies ebb and flow.
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