American Restaurant in New York, NY, United States
Chips for scooping up dip are made of squashed potato rolls, & a creamy New England clam chowder is served with oyster crackers that are, in fact, oysters. Some inventions are warped, some make you laugh, and most turn out to be delicious.
You can treat Pearl & Ash as a restaurant or a wine bar, order a few plates or fill the table. The chef is fluent in spices, from Southeast Asia to North Africa; his small plates are seasoned with a sense of adventure.
The crunch in a mound of hand-chopped beef tartare comes from golden chips of earthy sunchokes. Above raw scallops are wheels of raw summer squash that should taste dull but are dancing with citrus; they’ve been infused with grapefruit and yuzu.
Close your eyes & taste the tender, lip-smacking lamb neck swabbed in a black and intensely smoky purée of charred eggplant, or the delicate bouillabaisse that tamps down the garlic & brings up the orange & fennel.
Hanjan’s food is exciting; people wave their chopsticks around, urging their friends to try the grilled mackerel under a shiny sheath of soy glaze or the rice cakes slick with pork fat and chile paste.
The chefs offer carefully considered breaks with Thai tradition. Shredded potato & melting beef cheek taste right at home in a musky, complex massaman curry, & sweetbreads are a natural fit for a rounded, rich bowl of mee krob.
He makes a seared foie gras in ham-hock broth that’s both earthy and luxurious, and a short rib, slow-cooked in aged beef fat then grilled over intensely hot charcoal, that is supremely tender but still hits you in some primal spots.
Japanese Restaurant in New York, NY, United States
A meal at Mr. Nakazawa’s counter is a guided tour of the potential of simple seafood on rice. With subtle fine-tunings of temperature and seasoning, he makes a piece of sushi into the kind of sense-filling experience you wish could last and last.