36 Hours in Berlin

36 Hours in Berlin

Photo of The New York Times

Berlin, which has been Germany’s modern capital for only 23 years, has reached a coming-of-age moment.

22 Places
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    The eight-year-old Berghain Panorama Bar, a world-famous club on the second floor of a former power plant, still reigns. From the wee hours of Sunday morning until the beginning of Monday, the space, in the Friedrichshain neighborhood, is one big party.
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    Patrick Blasa is founder of the California Breakfast Slam, a popular weekend event that has recently expanded to every day of the week.
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    The artist and director Ralf Schmerberg and the Mindpirates, Mr. Schmerberg’s merry band of artists and curators, have turned a complex of rooms along the River Spree in Kreuzberg into a compelling independent art and event space.
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    A more upscale hangout across the street.
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    An eclectic scene that offers occasional live music, art installations and a storytelling night.
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    The small German menu changes frequently and the produce is local. The wild game entrees, like the venison leg served with an onion tart and sides of yellow beets, are a good choice. (Entrees cost 21 to 24 euros). Bring cash.
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    From the outside — and even from the inside — the Gasthaus Figl looks as if it could belong in any German Alpine town, but in the kitchen they’re cooking up something new, for Berlin at least: pizzas with high-quality ingredients.
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    Start at the cheerful secondhand shop Pony Hütchen, a few minutes from the Markthalle, for vintage furniture, shoes and clothing (a 1950s cocktail dress goes for 35 to 45 euros).
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    Refuel with a cappuccino and snack such as Earl Grey shortbread biscuits.
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    Farmers, foodies and protesters all mix at the revived historic Markthalle Neun, where every Friday and Saturday farmers sell their organic vegetables and cheese.
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