The over-the-top details continue with aged cheddar and a buttered, Maldon salt-sprinkled brioche, but Rendell shows his culinary chops by getting the proportions just right so that all the elements work in harmony.
Other Venue in Brooklyn
Beautifully composed and ready for its Instagram hero shot, it sports a deeply funky blend of dry-aged short rib, brisket, and chuck that's balanced nicely by confit tomato and spicy pickles. The cheese? Comté, of course.
If you're looking for intense, funky minerality, this patty is actually a bargain at $16, especially when you consider that it comes with crispy potatoes (though we wish they were fries) and a moist, buttery roll made by the in-house bakers.
P.J. Clarke's serves a bunch of gussied-up burgers that aren't worth the price tag—an eggs Benedict riff with hollandaise sauce, and the upscale-pub standard ahi tuna burger—but it handles the basics with aplomb.
Nothing satisfies a yearning for "old New York" like a trip uptown to J.G. Melon, where you can find the platonic ideal of a bar burger: thick and beefy, with a pliant, toasted bun and blanket of American cheese.
Like the $5 range, the $9 range is also rarified burger territory in NYC—above the "cheap" category, but below the gastropub and sit-down restaurant level when prices begin to balloon into double-digits.