Where to Eat in Astoria

Where to Eat in Astoria

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Fascinating food you must try in Astoria.

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    The "picnic" portion of this annual event, held in the church's snug backyard, is the sort where most all the food is homemade by the ladies of the congregation.
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    Ricotta, you will not be surprised to hear, is one common filling. Another, shown here, may have been introduced during a century-and-a-half of British rule: beef and mushy peas.
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    Karydopita ($3) gets a similar soaking, but to different effect. The syrup settles, leaving the upper reaches of this walnut cake merely moist and the top surface almost crunchy.
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    "Mama's old-fashioned pie" (medium, $14) was laden with San Marzano tomatoes, romano and fresh mozzarella cheeses, and crumbled bits of homemade meatballs ($2.50 extra) almost to a fault; it was difficult to detect the garlic and fresh basil.
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    Toasting the bagel first might be pushing your luck; this Italian-American-Jewish mashup strikes the right balance exactly as served.
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    Fig cookies ($8.95 per pound, or about 50 cents each).
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    Seen in passing: English and Arabic mirror each other nicely on this menu board, the one written left-to-right, the other, right-to-left. "Cheese burger," apparently, needs no translation.
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    Buffet sampler ($4.99 per pound, without churrasco): okra, chicken rolled around spinach and rice, and feijão tropeiro. In their original form these "cattleman's beans" provided sustenance during long horseback expeditions.
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