Spuntino also offers a tremendous value with entrées ringing in at no more than $18. When the restaurant figures out a more capable hood system, there will be few places that can match its gathering force.
Scandinavian ingredients such as rye, cloudberries, fresh dill, and horseradish are scattered about the menu, but they mingle with standbys such as a grilled pork chop, foie gras, pickled shrimp, and New York strip.
Fewer new items rotate through the kitchen (though brunch has been added), but the available dishes are virtually seamless. The exception: Food served in the bar, and especially during happy hour, doesn’t offer the same degree of finesse.
This steadiness transfers beyond vegetables to Duo’s meat and fish dishes—and especially to the merguez lamb meatballs, in which delicate flavorings, local white bean salad, and charred green onion pistou keep the dish light.
This is a restaurant that attracts both neighbors and destination diners, but it never takes itself too seriously. Shores, coupled with the aptitude of ever-effusive owner and sommelier Aaron Forman, will surely guide the restaurant to a good place.