Bill Addison's Final List of Favorite Atlanta Restaurants

Bill Addison's Final List of Favorite Atlanta Restaurants

Photo of Atlanta Magazine

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13 Places
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    The towering pastrami sandwich slathered with grainy mustard; the Swiss chard fritters at dinner, barely visible under a blizzard of Parmesan; the poutine, available noon and night, tangled with cheese curds and just enough gravy.
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    The cooks—each following his own muse—prepare a weekly rotating roster of dishes in the open kitchen and then bring them into the dining room to entice the diners personally.
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    Start with dips—herbaceous yogurt, sultry smoked eggplant—with hot, crackery bread, and segue to juicy marinated kebabs.
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    Order the “meatstick,” Phalen’s name for his better-than-the-rest double cheeseburger.
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    Order it in the main dining room during lunch and at the adjoining oyster bar during dinner.
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    Logue achieves the same texture by searing the top of a wedge of white lasagna until it’s nearly blackened, then serves it in a pool of fontina fonduta for smooth contrast.
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    Ditto pastry chef Kathryn King’s warm cheesecake, made lately with mild goat cheese. Charming general manager Andrés Loaiza leads one of the city’s most polished service staffs.
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    First, indulge in East-West lookers like uni tempura wrapped in seaweed and minty shiso with tomato-shallot salsa: They gratify both the eye and palate. Then savor the simplicity of exquisite nigiri sushi and sashimi crafted from pristine seafood.
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    Among Hugh Acheson’s expanding stable of restaurants—including the Florence, an Italian Southern concept scheduled to have opened in Savannah by the end of May—his first-born is my current weakness and well worth the drive to Athens.
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    In an age when so many chefs go ballistic with fat and salt and walloping flavors, Steven Satterfield stands confident in his love of the understated.
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    No other restaurant in town explores the relationship between Southern ingredients and the flavors of the world with more refinement and intellectual rigor.
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    Where do I eat most frequently when I’m off the clock as a critic? Billy Allin’s buttery-lit boîte on the southeast corner of Decatur Square.
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